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The placid face of Tuscany

Slow Maremma

In the southernmost area of Tuscany, the landscape is dominated by the open countryside and some seaside resorts such as Castiglione della Pescaia, Capalbio and Chiarone, characterized by long, almost deserted beaches, where a deafening silence reigns, broken only by the sound of the waves of the sea. The territory of the Maremma, the extension of which had already been defined by Dante in the Divine Comedy, is a perfect microcosm, in which sea, hills and mountains blend together and color the landscape with all their nuances.

Between the blue of the crystal clear sea of the Argentario, the black of the rocks of Talamone, the green and ochre of the hills of Massa Marittima and the brown of Mount Amiata against a rural background, the region is governed by an extremely wild nature.

However, there is no shortage of small picturesque villages: some of these can boast the classic Tuscan charm, with their uncrowded squares, stone buildings covered with colorful geraniums and characteristic alleys – to be explored in all seasons – while others combine this same traditional charm with elements more related to art, culture and local cuisine.

Among these, the most famous village is Pitigliano, nicknamed “the little Jerusalem” because it hosted an important Jewish community starting from the sixteenth century: the town still attracts many visitors today thanks to its splendid views and its very particular construction on the top of a massive tuff rock that supports the entire town, almost blending with the appearance of the oldest houses and becoming one with the town. The origin of the village, however, dates back to the Etruscan era, of which there are still important historical testimonies such as the Vie Cave, ancient communication and defense routes dug by hand into the rock, and the famous necropolis.

Part of the culture of the region refers to a bucolic past, made up of small things and an intimate contact between man and nature.

Even today, the Maremma cowboys try to preserve and keep alive the customs and secrets of their trade as shepherds on horseback, of their clothing – characterized by moleskin trousers, leg loops, velvet jackets, black hats and a large cloak called a greatcoat, with which they shelter from the rain – and of their history, which dates back to the period between the nineteenth century and the first half of the twentieth century, when they were the only ones who knew the secret to move and survive in a wild territory like the Maremma and to be able to cross its impervious nature to lead oxen and horses to pasture.

The cowboys can be considered real Italian cowboys, who still live today as in the past, preserving their ancient traditions of breeders of oxen, cows and Maremma horses, a type of horse that is born and grows in the area in complete freedom, but carefully guarded by the cowboys, thus being wilder and more indomitable than traditional breeding horses.

Among the animals that populate the Maremma area we also find several species of birds, which you can admire by birdwatching in the parks and nature reserves of the region. Autumn, in particular, is the perfect season to observe migratory birds, both those passing through and those who come here to winter: among them the wood pigeon, the song thrush, the woodcock, the wren, the robin and the chaffinch.

If all these sounds and colors of pure nature are not enough for you, turn towards the sea and let yourself be surprised by the fiery shades of the Maremma sunsets. When the sky is clear and a little wind blows, you can even see the silhouette of the island of Elba on the horizon.

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